Is Kenya Safe for Tourists? Advice from a frequent visitor

Read UK government advice about travel to the Kenya and you may decide to body swerve the entire country in the interest of your personal safety. But human dynamo Tina Leslie MBE, founder of anti-period poverty charity Freedom4Girls, knows another side to the country.

The UK’s Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office advises against all but essential travel to some parts of Kenya, in east Africa, with the country’s border with Somalia and northern parts of its east coast being identified as the most dangerous and volatile.

It says that “terrorists are very likely to try to carry out attacks in Kenya”, and adds: “There is a heightened threat of terrorism across Kenya. Attacks could target westerners, including British nationals. These could occur at any time including at religious events, public holidays or celebrations. Attacks are indiscriminate and could occur in places visited by foreigners, including tourists.”

While acknowledging there are parts of the country visitors should avoid at all costs, Tina has a strong love for Kenya and its people, having visited around 30 times. She said: “Apart from the amazing warm weather all year round, the people are what makes Kenya so special. They are always friendly, polite and smiling.”

Over the past 12 years, Tina has pioneered the delivery of menstrual health management education and washable reusable period dignity kits to over 28,000 girls and women in Kenya. Gladys (below) makes period dignity kits with stunning fabrics.

We invited Tina, who was made an MBE in the Queen’s honours list in 2023 for her unrelenting services to tackling period poverty in the UK and overseas, to tell us about the land which has her heart. This is what she said:

I’ve lived in Leeds all my life and am a mum and grandmother. I founded Freedom4Girls in 2015 and still run the charity today. I also work in public health and have done since 2008. In addition, I’ve been a fitness instructor for 20 years and teach five classes a week, in HiiT, circuit and pilates. I also help and support food banks in Leeds and help source food. So, my time for hobbies and chilling is next to zero!

Freedom4Girls is a UK-based charity that tackles period poverty and menstrual stigma by providing access to menstrual products and promoting menstrual education. The organisation operates both in the UK and in Kenya, with a focus on ensuring that no one is held back from education, work, or daily activities due to a lack of access to period products or the stigma surrounding them.

I visit Kenya two or three times a year and it’s the education and reusable period project that takes me there. My first visit to Kenya was in 2012 with a friend who was a midwife, working on a mother and baby project. After a few years, I set up Freedom4Girls, after learning that nearly 50% of girls and women do not have access to safe period protection.

In your view, is it safe to visit Kenya?

I mostly stay on north coast in the Nyali/Bamburi area, around 15kms from Mombasa.From personal experience, I’ve never felt threatened there. Obviously, you have to be careful, look after yourself and exercise precautions, just like you do in any country.

Don’t wear ‘bling’ jewellery outside of your hotel confines and watch your phone, even in the car, as it can be stolen through the window. Zip your bag up. There are pickpockets at large, as there are in many countries.

It’s my understanding that terrorist attacks usually happen in the north of the country or on the Somalian border. That’s a definite no-go area for foreign visitors. My advice, if visiting the country, would be to stick to your hotel, unless with a guide, and don’t attend events like large political rallies, for example. Most places frequented by tourists are in the countryside and national parks, where you have the safety of a guide and a driver.

As in some other countries, there is corruption so be careful and don’t get yourself into trouble. It’s not unusual for the police (usually the traffic police) to stop you and try get money off you. Your driver will usually sort it out as they’re used to it.

How do you get to Kenya from the UK?

While flying is obviously the best way to get there, unfortunately there are no direct flights to Mombasa from the UK. Flight costs vary depending on where you fly from and what airline. I usually pay around £700-£800 from Manchester, via Addis Ababa or Nairobi.

It’s a long journey (11 to 12 hours) but in summer, it’s only two hours ahead of the UK and three hours in the winter.

What are the Kenyan people like and do they speak English?

Kenyans are the most friendly, happy people you will ever meet. They are really helpful and humble. Many speak excellent English as they are taught it in school. Remember to speak more slowly so it’s easier for local people to understand you.

In more rural areas, they may not have had much opportunity to learn English, so Google Translate is handy.

Do you see many tourists in Kenya?

There is a lack of UK tourists in Kenya, compared to a few years ago. I think a main issue for people in the UK there is no direct flights, which puts people off, as well as concerns about safety.

According to the Kenyan Ministry of Tourism and Wildlife, Kenya had 1.75 million international tourist arrivals in 2023, up from 1.48 million in 2022. About 40% are these are holidaymakers.

Is there much shopping for tourists in Kenya?

You can buy beautiful traditional materials carvings and beaded jewellery at the markets or in shops. Take some shillings (currently 168.5 to the British pound) with you but you can use cards in supermarkets, big shops and bars, and be prepared to barter at the beach. US dollars are also accepted in some hotels.

Do you get any down time when you’re in Kenya and what do you like to do when you do?

Downtime when I am in Kenya is chilling on the beach, swimming in the Indian ocean (which feels like a warm bath), enjoying a cold Tusker cider for the equivalent of around £1.50 and feeling the warm sun on my skin.

The coast is amazing, with white sandy beaches on the south coast and, just as breath-taking as the beaches, the countryside is beautiful too. Here, you can go on a safari holiday or just to a local safari park, such as Bamburi Haller Park in Mombasa, where you can feed the giraffes and watch the huge crocodiles being fed. Also, exploring the reef off the coast is an amazing experience and water sports are good in many places.

It’s an amazing experience to swim off a glass bottom boat on the reef. You can catch one at Bamburi (have a look online) or from the hotels. The sea life off the reef is amazing and the fish and the coral are beautiful. The boats have basic snorkelling masks. If don’t swim, you can see everything through the glass bottom boat.

There are lots of private hotels on the beaches, where you can also pay to use their facilities for around a tenner a day, even if you’re not staying. There are good beach bars at Bamburi, such as the one at Big Tree Beach Resort, which has a lovely big bar on the beach, where you can stay all day. Coco Cobana beach in Mtwapa is full of beach bars. It’s a bit off the beaten track but nice to go swimming in the creek and you can also see the mangroves.

There’s a public beach at Bamburi, but be aware that there are no life guards there and I also wouldn’t leave your personal belongings unattended. Beach boys will try and sell you everything from safaris to property, necklaces to sweets, but you can politely decline.

Where do you stay when you’re in Kenya?

I have been coming to Kenya for so long now that I now I stay with a family, but there are plenty of amazing hotels and Airbnbs to stay in, such as Bamburi Beach Hotel and Saravo White Sands Beach Resort and Spa.

I stay in a village called Mtomondoni, just outside Mtwapa, which is very traditional. Some people still live in stick and mud houses with no running water or electricity. Houses in the village are usually one storey and they are very basic, but they have what they need. What’s more, everything is recycled and mended .

The house I stay in is minimalist but again. Toilets are a mixture of latrines (holes in the ground) and proper lavs.

What’s the food like in Kenya?

Kenyans love to BBQ, so expect to find beef, chicken, fish and corn on the cob on the grill. Kenyans’ staple food is ‘ugali’, which is. maize flour mixed with water. It’s pretty tasteless, to be fair, but it’s okay when mixed with a relish or stew. However, like rice, it keeps you full forever.

You can buy the most amazing fresh fruit from the markets and there are also supermarkets where you can buy most things. Many Kenyans eat ‘mahamri’ for breakfast, a bit like donut mix in a triangle shape, dipped in sweet black tea. Sometimes, they stuff mahamari with beans and coconut, which is very nice .

You’ll find some great restaurants in Mombasa. At Tamarind, you can savour a memorable dinner on a starlit terrace, perched on a cliff, overlooking the old harbour.

There’s an amazing floating restaurant called The Moorings at Mtwapa Creek. If you want traditional Kenyan food, try Coco Cabana beach at Mtwapa, where you’ll find lots of bars on the creek

How do you get around while you are in Kenya?

I have a driver but local transport, such as a matatu (mini bus), piky piky (motorbike) or tuk tuk are cheap alternatives. Beware, there are no helmets and they ride like lunatics.

You can hire a car and a driver pretty cheaply (recommend you do this via your hotel) and they drive on the same side as the UK. Watch out for everyone and everything on the road, as it gets hectic. Trying to dodge hand carts, motorbikes, people the odd, cow or chicken is an art in itself.

Is it safe for a woman to walk around on her own in Kenya?

In my personal experience, I would say that daytime is fine, but avoid backstreets and quiet places, and anywhere during night time is a no-no.

What’s the temperature like and when is the best time to visit Kenya?

The Mombasa area is pretty consistent all year round, being near the equator, with temperatures of 30-35 degrees Celsius. December to March is their summer, there are long rains in April/May and short spells of rain in November.

It’s very hot on the coast and when you step off the plane, it’s like stepping into a sauna, which, to me, is fabulous after cold, wet UK. While Nairobi is cooler at night, make sure your hotel room on the coast has air conditioning or a fan.

What’s the cost of a meal in Kenya?

It varies considerably from £1 for a meal to £25, depending on where you eat. If you venture out of your hotel with a guide, you may find that local places can be good and cheap.

Is Kenya very different culturally to Europe and do you have any tips for people visiting?

It very much depends where you go. The coast is quite liberal but while shorts and shirts are fine, don’t walk down the street in a bikini. Nairobi is cosmopolitan but modesty is the key. Most Kenyans are religious and the coast has a high population of Muslim people so you’ll see lots of mosques as well as many churches.

What vaccinations you need to have to go to Kenya and do you need a visa?

Yes, you’ll need to have a visa, which costs about £25 in the UK and really easy to apply for online, as long as you make sure you go through the proper website. In terms of vaccinations, hepatitis A, typhoid, tetanus, polio and, in some areas, yellow fever is also required.

Kenya facts:

With a population of round 50 million, the Republic of Kenya is the seventh most populated country in Africa. Its capital is Nairobi while its oldest and second largest city is the port of Mombasa, situated on Mombasa Island in the Indian Ocean, which is the region where most tourists head.

It’s bordered by South Sudan, Ethiopia, Somalia, Uganda and Tanzania and has a widely ranging climate, ranging from snow-capped mountains with vast surrounding forests, wildlife and fertile agricultural land, to dry and arid deserts.

According to the US Agency for International Development, 70% of Kenyan families are chronically vulnerable due to poor nutrition, food insecurity and preventable diseases. It says that many Kenyans suffer from economic inequality, while a minority elite continues to exploit their labour, resources and opportunities.

Tourism is a major contributor to Kenya’s economy, generating foreign exchange and jobs. In 2019, tourism accounted for 8% of Kenya’s GDP and supported almost 1.6 million jobs.

It’s a popular destination for wildlife viewing, with many animals to see in their natural habitats, including the Big Five (lion, elephant, rhino, leopard and buffalo) and the Big Nine (cheetah, giraffe, hippo and zebra). However, tourism can also have negative impact on Kenya’s environment, such as long-term declines in wildlife populations.

Always check government advice before embarking on any adventure, wherever your wanderlust takes you, and follow official advice.