Viareggio: A Restorative Escape on the Tuscan Coast

“Why Viareggio?” is a fair question. Whilst Tuscany is often associated with more familiar spots, such as Florence and Pisa, this seaside city on the Tuscan coast has its own distinct character. So I was really looking forward to seeing what it had to offer.

It felt like it had been a minute since I last went to Italy, but it had actually been just over two years. I was eager to start this trip, to reset my mind. I was staying at the historic, magnificent, luxurious 5-star Hotel Plaza e de Russie, and I especially looked forward to the hotel’s restaurant, Lunasia, where Michelin-starred chef Luca Landi would prepare a tailor-made menu each day for me as an invited guest of the owner. It would also be my first time dining in a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Overcoming Dependency and Finding an Appetite

More than just luxury, I knew I’d get the finest meal possible when I needed it most. After a trip in early July, I had a successful operation on my chest a few days after I returned. During the last 10 months, with my health taking a real slide, I was on heavy painkillers to manage the pain. Before that, I rarely ever took them, as I don’t care for relying on pills and have thankfully enjoyed a healthy lifestyle.

After my surgery, as I was no longer in discomfort, I decided to stop taking the medication cold turkey. It does take a physical toll that’s rarely talked about. The prescription liquid codeine and co-codamol contained opioids, and I had become dependent on them. That reliance took away my appetite, and for nearly a year, I felt like I hadn’t enjoyed a good meal.

That is why I was looking forward to the fine dining experience at the hotel’s restaurant. As I quit the pills, my appetite went through the roof. Some days, I would eat a meal and then, half an hour later, binge on snacks and sweets. I would get the jitters, and my hands would start shaking, as it was a physical battle with withdrawal symptoms. My doctor explained the reason behind this was, “The side effects you’re experiencing are similar to breaking an addiction. There can be, for some, an increased appetite as your digestion normalises.”

All of which made sense, as I was binging; the obvious was that I had put on a lot of weight, to go along with the digestive bloating, and my anxiety going through the roof because, aesthetically, I was not in the shape I was used to, compared to even a month earlier before my surgery.

Exercise, Exquisite Food, and Thoughtful Care

This is where Viareggio and the Hotel Plaza e de Russie served me well. I took full advantage of their 24-hour, state-of-the-art gym twice a day, and I immediately felt much better. Having been unable to exercise for two months after my surgery, getting my body back in healthy condition was essential. As we all know, exercise is so vital to our physical and psychological well-being. Being without it for a couple of months was a mental battle.

Then came the exquisite food. I wasn’t sure what to expect. I’ve eaten all around the world, and I was interested to see how it differed from a normal restaurant. What made Lunasia special was the attention to detail. The portions were perfectly balanced, every dish was of an exceptional quality, and they considered my dietary needs without making me feel like I was missing out. That also included desserts, which I often have to miss out on, since no alternatives are served to accommodate my dairy intolerance. The whole experience genuinely wowed me, and now I had a much better idea of what sets Michelin-starred dining apart.

During my stay, the first thing I noticed about Hotel Plaza e de Russie was how much thought went into the redesign. The lobby has its own charm, whilst the rooms feel luxurious without being overdone. The hotel has 44 rooms and suites, each contributing to a stylish, friendly atmosphere. I had a magnificent suite with a balcony overlooking the street. The little touches, like a plate of fruit, my slippers laid out, and my duvet set ready for me to tuck into after dinner each night, really gave me that luxury vibe. The staff also went out of their way each morning to bake me a fresh croissant for breakfast that met my dietary needs. The hotel’s design was matched by exemplary service, which I was thoroughly impressed by.

Uncovering Viareggio

Beyond the hotel, Viareggio is a charming, serene city, and its beautiful beach is a great place to relax and unwind. I did a guided city walk to learn about the history. The most intriguing part for me was learning that Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister, Pauline, built a villa right next to the hotel, now the Civic Museum of Villa Paolina. My guide also said she was quite a catch with men and was widely regarded as having many lovers.

I also visited the museum and warehouse where they build the floats for Viareggio’s famous carnival. The carnival is regarded as one of the best in the world, and when speaking to renowned award-winning photographer Rudolf Abraham, he told me, “Carnival is EPIC. It’s one of the few carnivals I’ve photographed twice. I have a rule that I don’t do the same carnival twice; otherwise, it would be impossible to see many of them, given they all happen at more or less the same time. I decided that rule didn’t apply for Viareggio.”

I got to see the papier-mâché figures up close, some of them based on rather divisive personalities. The work had humour and political commentary, and it was interesting to see how the carnival uses these enormous creations as satire.

All in all, nourishing my body with quality food, exercising, and exploring a little got me back into a healthy routine, and I am pleased to have built momentum; I feel great mentally. Viareggio was just what the doctor ordered.

DISCOVER: plazaederussie.com

lunasiaristorante.com & viareggio.ilcarnevale.com