Ubon Ratchathani (UBP-BKK) is a city located in the country’s largest region: Isaan. It lies in the south-east corner, approximately 630km north-east of Bangkok. Known locally as Ubon (aka ‘Royal Lotus City) it is on the region’s ‘big four’, along with Khorat, Udon Thani and Khon Kaen. Of the four, Ubon Ratchathani is the largest province with a history dating back to 1780, when King Taksin appointed the region’s first governor and awarded the city its name. The city was governed by four autonomous rulers up until 1882 when it was officially amalgamated into the Kingdom of Siam.
The region is known for its dramatic plateaus, mountain ranges, unspoiled nature reserves and Mun River, which runs through the middle. The province borders both Cambodia and Laos, the latter of which is naturally separated by high sandstone cliffs. The whole area is so stunningly beautiful; it is known as the ‘Emerald Triangle’. The province is well-known for its strong Buddhist tradition, particularly the prevalence of highly devout nature-dwelling monks.
From its spectacular natural beauty to strong indigenous culture and rich history, there is a lot to see, do and explore in this northern part of Thailand. Let’s take a look in more detail at three main areas: what to see, what to eat and what to experience.
What to See
No visit to Ubon Ratchathani (UBP-BKK) is complete without visiting these top sights:
Pha Taem National Park – A popular destination for the first sunshine of the New Year to fall on Thailand (see the following section for more details).
Sam Pan Boak – Known as the ‘Grand Canyon of Thailand’, this is the biggest rock reef in the Mekong River. It is a continuous current of rock notched with 3,000 holes.
Huai Sai Yai Waterfall – This waterfall beautifully runs (best between Sept-Dec) over a rock terrace in the lush forest surrounds of Khao Yot Mon Wildlife Sanctuary.
Wat Tham Khuha Sawan – This temple built during the Ayutthaya period (circa 1350-176) is famous for a cave located at the back housing several Buddhist statues.
Sirinthon Dam – Occupying 15 acres, this dam area comprises botanical gardens, fountains, rest pavilions, plants and flowers and musical elephant sculptures.
Tham Heo Sinchai – This cave is home to a prominent cascading waterfall and a reclining Buddha image, not to mention a beautiful meadow field.
What to Eat
You cannot visit Ubon Ratchathani (UBP-BKK) without sampling the following local delicacies:
Gaeng Naw Mai (bamboo shoot curry) – Gaeng naw mai is originally a Laotian curry, it’s just hopped the border into Issan and become very popular. The main ingredients in this soup-like dish are light-coloured bamboo shoots, oyster mushrooms, Thai chillies, fish sauce, cubes of orange pumpkin and yanang (a medicinal plant). The soup is mildly sour and has a unique earthy and salty pungency.
Laab (minced meat salad) – On first reading, this one might sound a bit odd, but trust us, it is delicious! Laab is most often made with chicken, beef, duck, fish or pork and flavoured with fish sauce, lime juice, onion, chilli, roughly ground toasted rice and mint. The dish is served at room temperature with a side of sticky rice and raw vegetables. It has a salty, smoky flavour and soft texture.
Sai Grok (fermented sausage) – Wander around any outdoor foods market in Issan, and you’re sure to come across some sai grok smoking on a grill. These sour sausages are somewhat akin to salami and chorizo and typically served either on long bamboo skewers or in smaller, snack-size chunks, seasoned with salt and garlic. They are accompanied by ginger slices, raw chopped cabbage and little chillies.
Tom Saep (hot and sour soup) – Similar to well-known tom yum soup, tom saep is a clear sour served from a clay pot and filled with dark herbs and chunks of meat. However, be warned that a generous dose of fresh chillies will have your nose dripping in no time! This broth has a classic light and savoury Thai flavour thanks to the inclusion of kaffir lime leaves, basil, lemongrass. Two tips: the herbs are not meant to be eaten, and you’ll have to work the meat off the bone.
Som Tum Thai (papaya salad) – This colourful dish can be spotted everywhere across Isaan. It’s a somewhat simple dish of shredded raw, unripe papaya, cherry tomatoes, peanuts, yardlong beans and dried shrimp. Variations include the addition of pickled blue crab and salted egg or the swapping of papaya for corn, carrot, cucumber or lotus root. Som tum is the perfect example of how Thai’s like to combine salty (fish sauce), sweet (cane sugar), tangy (lime juice) and spicy (chillies) flavours in one bite.
Gai Yang (grilled chicken) – Time to re-think what you thought you knew about grilled chicken. The version found in Ubon has a distinct flavour thanks to its marinade (a mixture of garlic, coriander root, lemongrass, black peppercorn, fish sauce and soy sauce) and cooking style. On every roadside street, you will find charcoal grills slowly roasting whole chickens. The smoky taste is enhanced with a sweet and sour tamarind dipping sauce. And do not forget a side order of sticky rice!
What to Experience
There are a few key local events that you’ll want to mark down in your calendar and not miss should you happen to be visiting Ubon at the right time of year.
New Year Sunrise
When: December – January
Where: Pha Chana Dai
What: Welcome the New Year before anyone else in the country from the lofty heights of Dong Na Tham Forest. This easternmost point of the country along the Mekong River is the first place in the Kingdom to be bathed in the rays of the sunrise each day.
Candle Procession Festival
When: July
Where: Throughout the province
What: This festival features a procession of ornately carved traditional beeswax candles in various shapes and sizes. This Buddhist tradition has been carefully preserved by local communities for generations, showcasing their long-standing traditions and beliefs.
Shrimp Parade
When: August – September
Where: Kaeng Lam Duan Waterfall
What: Every year thousands of tiny shrimp use ten pairs of legs to migrate under cover of darkness up the stream of Lam Dome Yai in Ubon. When they encounter obstacles in the water, they simply climb out and walk along the water’s edge.
