Confidently, arms outstretched, I thrust myself away from the poolside into the water, expecting the rest of me to follow. Seconds later legs and feet were flailing in the air at ear level and I was bobbing about near certain to collide with fellow bathers. Yes, you guessed it. I was in a thalasso pool – and no ordinary one at that.
I was in Brittany, birthplace of Thalassotherapy, where heated seawater and marine minerals are combined to produce wonderfully relaxing and beneficial health programmes in state-of-the art Spas. So mainstream are thalassos in France that they are frequently prescribed by doctors as relaxation or detox “cures”. Before forgetting the super buoyancy of thalasso pools, I’d been gazing through the wide-paned windows of the Miramar Crouesty’s Oceanic pool while underwater jets pummelled neck, back and thighs. Ahead of me was the resort’s Le Fogeo beach at the heart of the beautiful Gulf de Morbihan, described as the loveliest bay in the world and located in the Brittany’s temperate south. Occasionally I lounged like a Caesar on the “bubble bench” – an underwater banquette, and let the magic 37 degree waters and massage jets do their work.
Ever since the first Thalassotherapy centre opened in Roscoff over a hundred years ago, Bretons have exported their beloved brainchild to coastal resorts all over France and beyond. “Coastal” because strict rules govern the provenance of thalassos; they must be no further than half a mile from the sea; seawater used in treatments must be pure and fresh (not stored) and be heated to specified temperatures. More rules apply to seaweeds and marine wraps used in programmes.
The Miramar Crouesty, a floating palace among thalassos, more than ticked all boxes. Set in a seawater lake and shaped like a graceful ocean liner it has a panoramic rooftop swimming pool, ground level thalasso centre with luxurious treatment rooms, and, sumptuous balconied suites as “cabins.” Two restaurants are the domain of Chef Yves Toublanc, where buffets,a la carte and delicious “Dietique”menus (not more than 300 calories) are served. The resort fashionably at the cutting edge of thalasso, is constantly developing advanced facilities, such as its new Hammam, complete with changing lights and cold fountain, and “airbed” treatment baths, where guests float while enjoying detox seaweed wraps.
<pp_img type=”node” title=”Domaine de Cice-Blossac” align=”right” link=”/image/domaine-de-cice-blossac” nid=”1912″ preset=”medium” teaser=”0″> Equally state-of-the-art and newly opened is the inland Domaine de Cice-Blossac, just 10 miles from Rennes in the village of Bruz. Part of a glamorous 280 acre on-water golf and Spa complex, it is beautifully developed amid slow moving waterways and magnificent woodlands that recall a New England landscape. Luxurious suites are housed in wood-clad buildings set on stilts, and even have smart kitchens to add a self-catering option to the resort’s excellent restaurant. The Cice Blossac’s Spa’s elegant minimalism has an oriental flavour. Treatments include massages, wraps and detox programmes, with revitalising Ayurvedic “modelage” and “après-golf” relaxing combinations of Hammam and aromatherapy. Special day and weekend packages are available, including use of the golf course, with “Beginners Golf” proving popular. Versatile function rooms are also on offer at the resort.
Rennes, ancient capital of Brittany, was almost entirely rebuilt on Paris lines after a drunken carpenter set fire to almost the whole city in 1720 – only the Palais de Justice an original survivor. Today, this university city offers a chic mix of shopping, restaurants and sightseeing. Not to be missed is the Food Market and the Rue de Nemours where you can sample local cheeses and the famous “galettes” and biscuits, almost as close to Breton hearts as their world famous Crepes.
Impressions of Brittany’s ancient Celtic heritage abound, from Standing Stone monuments to bi-lingual traffic signs. Nearly 1m speak Breton, a language close to Cornish or Welsh, and each August the Inter-Celtic music Festival at Lorient is an annual highlight. “Welcome to the end of the World” reads the Tourist Office brochure at Pointe de Raz, literally translating the region’s far western corner, “Finistere.” Here spectacular cliffs, jagged coastlines and terrifying currents combine in an iconic Brittany image.
Daily the changing tides reveal and then cover an archipelago of rocky islands, on which, far out to sea and battered by the ocean, perch lighthouses of Breton stone. The first of these took over 12 years to build in conditions of highest danger, back in the 1800s. It eloquently sums up the courage and gritty determination of Bretons who have kept their culture, language and Celtic traditions in place. “End of the world?” I don’t think so.
