Why Batsi in Andros is the perfect Greek getaway

Standing, with my hands on my hips, in the sparkling, crystal clear Aegean Sea, looking back at Batsi in Andros, I asked myself what it is about the village which is just so easy on the eye. I concluded that nothing here is ugly. In other words, everything is beautiful.

The buildings of the village are predominantly dazzling white, under terracotta rooves, with dashes of cobalt blue or pastel green. There are none that you’d want to edit out of a photo. Even the occasional empty building is highly Instagrammable. Newer buildings are crisp, clean and sympathetically constructed, built to a high standard, and there is no graffiti.

The hills around the village aren’t cram-packed with villas and hotels, each fighting for space, as you might see on other, more popular islands or in other holiday destinations. Nothing is over three storeys high, either.

Higgledy-piggledy whitewashed steps take you up to winding, narrow streets where the pavements are of dark local stone, with the cracks in between painted white. Someone must be on permanent contract to keep them white, as they are all pristine.

All you can hear is the breeze, the waves, the cicadas, the happy clanking of knives and forks and the occasional beep as the man with the flowing grey locks and mirror shades rounds the bend on his motor bike (no helmets worn), going into the village, shouting greetings to everyone he passes.

And then there are the sunsets.

Granted that everything looks prettier in the sunlight, but the way the light hits this island in the Cyclades – which is larger than nearby Mykonos but so very different – is breath-taking.

I have been struggling to find ways to aptly describe Batsi and the best I can do is ‘sophisticatedly authentic’.

Don’t come here thinking it’s going to be a backwater, as its far from that. Granted, with no airport, it’s reachable from the mainland only by ferry, making it less easy to get to than the likes of Crete, Corfu or Santorini. You have to make an effort to get here!

I last visited Andros some 35 years or so ago – one of my first foreign holidays without my parents. Back then, it was much less discovered. When we hired a car, they had to ship one over from the mainland for us. When the battered Lada Riva arrived, reverse gear didn’t work on it. There were walnut-skinned men sitting sideways on donkeys, women in black and on one day, all the cars sounded their horns in the village, celebrating a wedding, which everyone sitting in the few seaside restaurants got invited to.

Now, you will find a picture-perfect village, overseen by a grand church whose bell  randomly chimes when it feels like it, where people greet you with a big smile and the scent of grilled fish and meat fills the air. But it has a low-key sophisticated side to it too, where brunch is enjoyed beachside in up-market, laid back eateries which are open on all sides, allowing the sunshine to flood in.

I asked Google what’s so special about the Greek way of life and learned its one that emphasises strong family ties, a love for socialising and a deep appreciation for leisure and good food. It’s a culture that values community, tradition and living in the present moment. That’s a better way of saying ‘sophisticatedly authentic’, I guess.

This social, happy way of life is good for you too, associated with good health and longevity. Most people are exceedingly warm, friendly and have time to talk to you. Take, for example, the convivial owner of Batsi Super Market, on the seafront. One reviewer said: “This place is owned by a cat and his employee is very friendly.”

This refers to the feline queen of this mini market, Caramella (below left), who you’ll often find asleep at the bottom of one of the displays. Her man employee, Panagiotis, feeds stray cats from an ashtray outside the shop, although Caramella is the only one allowed inside.

We were invited to name Caramella’s friend, who sleeps with his head on the step, longing to get inside but respecting that he’s not allowed. We called him Cosmo (above right). We loved walking by every morning and wishing a good morning to Panagiotis, always popping in on our walk home, for cold drinks and a chat. Panagiotis told us when our holiday ended that the whole village would cry!

Myself and my two daughters, both in their early 20s, visited Batsi at the end of June 2025. Given that to them, a holiday with mum is like being on an ‘all inclusive’, I entered ‘cheapest Greek islands’ into Google and was surprised when Andros appeared – and wondered how it might have changed since the 1990s. Here is what we found:

First of all, where is Andros?

Andros is 36 miles (58 km) from the Greek mainland and, much to my surprise, is one of the largest islands. An area of 236 square miles (380 km) and a coastline of 109miles (176 km), it’s the most northerly and second largest island in the Cyclades, of which there are actually 220, although many are tiny and uninhabited.

The major islands include Ios, Mykonos, Paros, Santorini, Tinos and Naxos, which is the largest.

Andros Town (or Chora) is the biggest place on the island, but we settled for Batsi, which has about 1,000 permanent residents.

What’s the best way to get to Andros?

We flew with Ryanair from London Luton to Athens (approx four hours), got an Uber to the port of Rafina (€30-€40), then caught a ferry to Andros (€25 to €35 per person), then a taxi to Batsi (€15). Basic flights were under £100 each (booked way in advance), but then of course you ned to add baggage, seats, etc.

We took the faster ferry to Andros (Superrunner Jet by Seajets), which is slightly more expensive and takes around an hour, but took the slower one (Fast Ferries) on the return (2 hours) and much preferred that in terms of comfort, space and food choices on board.

Getting on and off is a bit chaotic, but that rather adds to its appeal!

I downloaded the Ferryscanner app and intended to use that to book ferries (it was useful to see timetables on the app) but for some reason it didn’t work when I came to book and went into one of the booking offices at Rafina port, instead. It may have been the dodgy wifi!

Who visits Andros?

While we were there, it was mostly couples and young families, with tourists coming mostly from elsewhere in Greece, but also from Spain, France, Italy, Sweden and a smattering of Brits and a few Americans.

Where to drink in Batsi, Andros

There are several bars which serve cocktails and compete for volume in the harbour (it can get quite noisy after dark), but hands down our favourite place to drink (and indeed have brunch) was 105’E.

105’E is in the most perfect location, right on the harbour, with the beauty of Batsi laid out before you. The view really is a gorgeous assault on your senses and the decor and chilled vibes of the bar are spot on – not to mention the buy one, get one free offer on Aperol Spritz.

Hosts Christopher, Ilias and Toma made us feel like old friends from the moment we met them. Toma was keen for us to try her favourite cocktail – Spicy Spice – which is what we called her while we were there.

Everything that came from the kitchen or bar was delicious. Think eggs laid that morning and bread handmade by Ilias every day. I had the Dubai chocolate pancakes for brunch (an obsession of mine) and they were stunning.

Every evening, smiling Markos was on the decks, delivering 80s and 90s bangers (Boney M, Beegees, ABBA and Barry White), which caused me to dance in the street and stop traffic one night, fuelled by Spicy Spice and Aperol Spritz.

The bar has also started selling luxury handmade soaps (made by a friend in Kalymnos), and owner Christopher gave some to each of us when we left, as a thank you for frequenting so often. He told us we had a great energy and were very kind people. He brought a tear to my eye when we had to leave.

Prices:

• Aperol Spritz: two for €12 (one person)
• Toast, butter, homemade jam, freshly squeezed orange juice and tea or coffee: €8
• Dubai chocolate pancakes, with pistachio praline (highly recommended): €14

Where to eat in Andros

The food we had in Batsi was probably the best we have ever had in any holiday destination, ever. A bold statement, but true. Think Greek salads with the sort of tomatoes which burst with sunshine-filled, juicy freshness – the kind that you can never find in the UK. Everything is simply but deliciously seasoned with oregano, salt and pepper.

There’s fresh grilled meat and fish, local cheeses, homemade breads and pitta, robust bean stews and silky fava bean and smoked aubergine dips. I know nothing about Greek wine, so ordered a half litre carafe of house wine wherever I went and only once found it a little too ‘cheeky’ for me.

Generally, we found the more ‘fancy’ and modern a restaurant, the less attentive and friendly the service was, plus it was usually more expensive . We ate well everywhere and had Greek salad and fava everywhere too. I couldn’t fault them, wherever we went.

We typically spent between €54 and €76 dinner for three people, per night, which is great value! Note, it’s important to make a reservation, especially in peak season, I imagine.

Here’s where we ate:

Beltisa (above): high quality taverna in the centre of the village, with tables on the edge of the water. The ‘baked’ bean stew (butter bean, not Heinz) was delicious, as was the homemade pitta. We ordered lots of small plates and enjoyed them meze style. We liked it so much that we went on our first and last nights. On the second visit, the waiter asked if we wanted the same table again. Great memory, that man!

Eleni’s traditional caffe (above): I read reviews of this charming place online and decided we had to go. We wouldn’t have found it otherwise, as it’s tucked away behind the main street, with characterful, wonky steps running through it and coloured wooden tables and chairs perched upon them. Such a find! Traditional cooking and the sweetest service. We loved it here….and my carafe of wine was a little metal jug! I had delicious fresh fish, simply seasoned with lemon and oregano. At the end of the meal, we were each offered a ‘sweet spoon’ of something sugary and lovely. I have no idea what it was, but it was nice! One of the cheapest places we ate in Batsi.

Zubaya (above): we came to this very Instagrammable spot for brunch twice and the food and atmosphere was great both times (with lovey loos too). Right on the beach, with sunbeds for hire. The staff were plentiful and friendly, especially the smiley bar man. Brunch was spot on – with great choice – and the and soundtrack was always banging.

Capricio (above): one of the trendier spots in town, with great views. We had brunch here one morning. In the evening, we walked by and saw a DJ set and people dancing. It looked great fun. Service was quite impersonal, brunch in my opinion okay and views outstanding.

Oti Kalo (above): a hugely popular spot serving good, traditional food, with a modern twist. Lovely views of both the sea and cute back street (with the funky pavement that I love). I ordered tuna steak with superfood salad and beetroot mousse. The fish was deliciously fresh and cooked pink – just how I like it, but I’m not sure you could call the disc of quinoa a ‘salad’. My daughter raved about her chickpea stew and we all helped her finish it, as it was incredible, as was my other daughter’s steak.

Cavo Meze (above): I had a desire for some grilled octopus and this traditional Greek restaurant scratched that itch very well. Situated on the prime, front row, this was another, well-priced, traditional restaurant with a buzzing atmosphere and well-seasoned food with big, bold flavours. Like most places, they gave us a free shot at the end of our meal, which was always very much appreciated.

Mi se Meli: we were told that the food here is like your Greek mum would make and it was delicious, set in the row of restaurants which line the little road which leads into town and fronts the harbour. Silky smooth smoked aubergine dip, yummy fava and great moussaka, beautifully served in a blue and white pot with lid. Everything was perfect, the ambiance was on point and food beautifully presented. Highly recommended.

Senso Sesto: set slightly out of town and with a family feel, this pleasant little eatery was en route to our apartment, with a stunning view out to sea. The waitress was smiley (and spoke perfect English) and our breakfast was spot on. It had more of a traditional feel than several other places and was excellent value for money. I simply loved the simple yoghurt, walnuts and honey for breakfast. It tasted so different than Greek yoghurt back in the UK.

Mastello: staff rush around with ear pieces in and aren’t as attentive and friendly as other places, but the fish was good and the mussels, plump and juicy. The salad was simple, yet so tasty, and I couldn’t stop thinking about it the next day. I want to try to replicated at home. Again, we ordered meze style and shared. We asked for a table on the beach and were told that they were all taken, but nobody showed up while we were eating on the terrace of the main restaurant. We suspected they didn’t want three at a table for four. Slightly more expensive, but still good value.

Aura: again on the front row, between us we ate twice here: once when my daughter fancied a gyro to scoff on the balcony of our apartment and another time when we wanted a simple, traditional meal. I had the souvlaki which was tasted subtly of charcoal and was beautifully seasoned, as was everything we ate. An absolute bargain, too! Tables on the harbour front and you can takeaway. My daughter raved about her gyro which was incredibly good value for money.

Can vegans/vegetarians eat well in Batsi, Andros?

In a word, yes. Very well indeed. My daughter is vegan and, when in Spain and France, she lives on poke bowls with the meat picked out, raw vegetables (if she’s lucky) and lettuce. In Batsi, she had a myriad of choice, her favourites being the bean or chickpea stews, tomato and cucumber salads and fava dips, the latter of which we all had wherever we went.

Where to stay in Batsi, Andros?

We’d initially booked an hotel, but latterly read it was a 27 minute walk into the village, so we cancelled and rebooked Sunset Studios, owned by the charming gentleman that is Giannis. I can’t imagine staying anywhere more perfect, just a gentle downhill walk into the village centre, with stunning views out to sea and air conditioned rooms (vital).

On the top floor is a single, penthouse apartment for two people (Giannis will add an extra bed, if needed). The apartment is chic and has the most amazing, huge terrace, with views to die for. We stayed there for one night before moving to a spacious two-bedroom apartment on the first floor, which was spot on.

We were actually due to spend a final night in Athens on the return leg of our trip, but we just didn’t want to leave paradise, so stayed another night at Sunset Studios and Giannis put us up in a studio on the ground floor

All apartments at Sunset Studios are meticulously clean, lovingly looked after by Giannis and his family, and starting at €42 per night, are amazing value for money. I would go back in a heartbeat. All rooms have little kitchenettes – although we never once used the facilities, other than the fridge.

Speaking of Athens, the reviews we read of graffiti, rundown buildings, drug users and people sleeping on the streets around the hotels I had shortlisted were a real turn off. I know you get that in every big city and I am sure it’s not all like that, but we couldn’t pull ourselves away from Batsi, which felt so safe, beautiful and friendly.

Is Andros a cheap island?

Compared to some of the Greek islands, undoubtedly. We read about people paying up to €40 for a cocktail in Mykonos, whereas it was possible to get two for €12 per person at our favourite 105’E in Batsi, for example.

With low cost flights booked well in advance, bargain, reasonably-priced accommodation and the decent price of eating out, you won’t have to break the bank here. I hope it retains some of its authenticity as it inevitably grows in popularity.

Note, you are generally asked if you want to leave a tip in bars and restaurants. Everywhere accepted cards, even on the beach.

What’s shopping like in Batsi, Andros?

There aren’t too many shops, but there is everything you need. There is one where the owner hovers over you like a hawk, waiting for you to try to nick a fridge magnet, but that was the exception. There are a handful of little, classy boutiques selling jewellery, clothes, bags and shoes, and some others selling the obligatory souvenirs and beach gear, plus a couple of mini markets in the village.

We loved the friendly lady called Basilisk in Swallow, where I bought two bikinis and we all bought jewellery. We waved hello to Basilisk every day and her warm personality was infectious and set us up for the day.

What’s the weather like in Andros?

At the end of June, the temperature was in the high 20s to mid 30s (it got up to 35 degrees), slightly cooled, however, by the Cyclades wind. That wind can sometimes get strong, although we rather welcomed it. The main casualties of the wind are the napkins and menus in bars and restaurants, which can get blown into the sea (I spent some mornings fishing them out, after a swim).

Giannis told us that June and September have the best weather, with July and August often becoming unfathomably hot – although it always feels 10 degrees hotter in Athens, we were told. While he said they have had snow there (seems unimaginable), weather is mild all year round and local people often spend Christmas in t-shirts. The dream.

What are the beaches like in Andros?

When I visited in the earl 1990s, the local people said the sea had been over-fished and there were none left. This time, I am happy to report, little fish appeared when you wiggled your toes in the shallows and what I am told were sea bass darted around too.

We were incredibly lazy and never strayed from the main beach in Batsi, where we had daily sunbeds and snacks brought to us. It is a lovely strip of sand (some small stones as you enter the sea) and you will have to dodge the resident swans (not incredibly friendly, but not aggressive – and happy to snack on my leftover pasta).

We rented beds and a parasol from both Zubaya and Porto Market, the latter being a little supermarket with cafe, from where you can order really reasonably priced snacks and drinks to be brought to you sun lounger, which were €20 for three (with parasol) per day.

The young man who served us was utterly charming, chatty and spoke excellent English. The sunbeds at Porto – although here weren’t very many – also had big puffy pillows on them, making them our favourite. It also had the most spotlessly clean loos in the whole of Batsi!

He’s always on hand to take your Aperol order, or you can get breakfast, lunch and everything in between brought to you at very reasonable prices. We enjoyed the salads and club sandwiches. We’d also pop in for ice lollies and bottle water straight from the freezer. They even stocked Dubai chocolate ice lollies, of which I had many (come on England, keep up)!

There are lots of other lovey beaches on Andros and we should have tried some more. Next time!

Are there many stray cats in Andros?

There are a few, although not as many as we have come across in Turkey. People can often be seen feeding them scraps from their tables, as we did. We noticed from their clipped ears that there is a neutering programme in place, preventing additional litters, which is a great idea.

Andros has changed somewhat in the 30+ years since I last went but it is still a little, glimmering jewel, and my daughters both say they never want to go anywhere else than Batsi now.

I have made them promise that they will return in 35 years – when I may have shuffled off elsewhere – and see how much it has changed. But I have a feeling we will be back before then.

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First Published on https://thesunlounger.co.uk/2025/07/10/andros-the-most-perfect-of-greek-islands/